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Some low light Barn Owl pics from tonight:

Some low light Barn Owl pics from tonight:

Anybody know how to replicate the look from the 1980s photos in this book?

http://www.hoxtonminipress.com/products ... oto-book-6

I'm not entirely sure exactly what the technical term is for what I'm trying to replicate, but I'm basically trying to get the same look/feel which I presume is a function of how the camera handled the light/processing of the photo. Any thoughts?

Anybody know how to replicate the look from the 1980s photos in this book?

http://www.hoxtonminipress.com/products ... oto-book-6

I'm not entirely sure exactly what the technical term is for what I'm trying to replicate, but I'm basically trying to get the same look/feel which I presume is a function of how the camera handled the light/processing of the photo. Any thoughts?

If I understand you correctly you want to digitally post-process existing stock in a way which, during the eighties, was the product of mixing physical film stock and developing in a dark room. The easiest way is to get hold of a copy of something like Nik Software Colour FX Pro plugin for Photoshop. Then you want to use the Film:Efex Modern feature and post-process using one of its film stock simulators (AGFA Optima, FUJI Superia, FUJICHROME, KODAK GOLD, KODAK EKTACHROME etc. etc.).

To be honest, there are a million ways to post-process. But steer clear of sites like Instagram and the like. Whilst such often have a million different filters ,the raw processing power assigned to a print will be a fraction of what you'll get using your own PC running Photoshop/Photoshop Elements and such. To the naked eye it might not seem so great a difference. But trust me - the standards are really low and you end up clipping a chunk of the shadows and the highlights.

If I understand you correctly you want to digitally post-process existing stock in a way which, during the eighties, was the product of mixing physical film stock and developing in a dark room. The easiest way is to get hold of a copy of something like Nik Software Colour FX Pro plugin for Photoshop. Then you want to use the Film:Efex Modern feature and post-process using one of its film stock simulators (AGFA Optima, FUJI Superia, FUJICHROME, KODAK GOLD, KODAK EKTACHROME etc. etc.).

To be honest, there are a million ways to post-process. But steer clear of sites like Instagram and the like. Whilst such often have a million different filters ,the raw processing power assigned to a print will be a fraction of what you'll get using your own PC running Photoshop/Photoshop Elements and such. To the naked eye it might not seem so great a difference. But trust me - the standards are really low and you end up clipping a chunk of the shadows and the highlights.

For anyone looking for a low cost zoom lens, I bought a Sigma 70-300mm with Macro facility for less than £100 (new). I thought for the price it was worth a try. As you would expect its not superb, especially if you try to crop an image. But took these just now, which I thought given the price were pretty reasonable (NB close-ups were only hand held at 300mm so inevitably a bit of shake). Overall, I would say that although the lens is by no means great if you are working on a budget it is pretty good.

For anyone looking for a low cost zoom lens, I bought a Sigma 70-300mm with Macro facility for less than £100 (new). I thought for the price it was worth a try. As you would expect its not superb, especially if you try to crop an image. But took these just now, which I thought given the price were pretty reasonable (NB close-ups were only hand held at 300mm so inevitably a bit of shake). Overall, I would say that although the lens is by no means great if you are working on a budget it is pretty good.